
I. The Name
A Word Carried by Sea
Before the world knew the word tea, it knew the tea of southern China.
The hills of Fujian produced leaves that were sought far beyond China. Along the coast, Hokkien merchants gathered them for trade and carried them through the ports of Asia. Nearby, the Teochew made tea into an exacting daily art, giving close attention to the leaf, the water and the hand that brewed it.
When Dutch merchants came looking for tea, they heard the word used around the southern ports. There, 茶 was not cha, but tê. They wrote it as thee and carried it home with the leaf.
The word travelled as the tea did. It became thé in France, Tee in Germany and tea in England. Across the Nanyang, it became teh, the word still heard every day in Singapore.
Tei returns to that beginning. To the people who knew tea closely, to the ports that carried it outward, and to the word that travelled with it.

